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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.